our L/Ast two days
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
our L/Ast two days
Tom and Patti left on Sunday but we stayed until Tuesday evening so Cliff could catch up on his songwriting with Willie Wisely http://www.myspace.com/wiselymusic and Danny Wilde.
Monday we got up and had a very tasty breakfast at Millie’s with Mark. Even though it was early in the morn I had a BLT as that was what Mark ordered and it sounded like it would hit the spot. It did. The folks there were very nice, even though their tees claim that their motto is “Service with a Fuck You”. Anyone who has worked in the service industry has to love that one. Why am I thinking of Neal Shreeve right now?!
Cliff had a meeting at the 101 with his old manager Russell Z for lunch, and as you can imagine, having had a BLT just a few hours before I was not in the mood for lunch just then. I had not seen Russell in ages but knew that it was better that Cliff just meet with him. This also gave me the opportunity to do a touristy thing and head down to Hollywood Blvd and find Ruby Keeler’s star. She was a friend of my great aunt Agga, they met when both of their husbands were in the Navy. Agga told me that one of Ruby’s daughters has the middle name Agnes because of her, but I have yet to be able to confirm that. So this is about as famous as my fam gets!
I walked down the sidewalk and while I was walking noticed that on some level some stars resonated with me more than others, so I snapped photos. Kittie Carlisle has just passed away and she was pretty cool, I took a photo of Liz Taylor’s star for Connie, and how could I pass Ella Fitzgerald without taking a shot? Ruby’s star was not exactly where I had thought it would be but I did find it, and then it was off to buy some postcards to send home.
It was amazing the difference that the giant Kodak Center makes on the Boulevard. When I first went to Los Angeles in 1998 I stayed in the Orchid Suites, a divey little place within a block from the boulevard. We literally walked from the hotel down to the middle of it all. The next year when we returned we had decided to stay at the Magic Castle Motel on Franklin, just a block further up, because we had seen how much nicer it was than the Orchid the night Wendi and I went to the party in Love Nut’s room with the Starbelly guys. Also that year was when there was construction happening right next to the Orchid. Well the construction was the building of the giant centre, and now the street the Orchid is on is a dead end, with the loading dock to the centre right next to the entrance of the Orchid. My how time changes everything.
Cliff called me after his meeting was done and picked me up at the corner of Hollywood and Vine- seemed like a memorable place to meet, and we headed into the Hollywood Hills to Willie’s house. The traffic was pretty miserable for a while even though we weren’t that far away and once again I was reminded of the things that people deal with just to live out here. We did take a left and make it up some narrow windey streets to the Wisely’s house, where WW was practicing in the garage and welcomed us warmly. OK enough W’s.
I headed out for a few hours of exploring on my own, which is always a treat. Heading back towards Los Feliz I did snap a few photos of the Orchid and the Magic, since they are part of Cliff and my history now. I went to Wacko, as had been suggested, and it was a treasure trove of all things pop and cool. Books and coasters and clothing and bags and toys and records, cards, stickers, prints, you name it. I often get overwhelmed when I am presented with so many cool things, that I really could not pick out just one thing to buy. Somehow when it is all presented en masse it seems less special. I did take a look at the Shag prints, and if I had seen one that really did it for me, I would have taken the plunge, but none was just quite right. I did spend hours there though, so looking was just as fun as buying, or not buying as the case may be.
From there it was off to Vermont. Since I really hadn’t had lunch I was feeling a bit peckish, so I found the Figaro Cafe to have some tea and a croissant. Not as good as the Chateau, however it hit the spot as I sat outside in the sun and tried to write. I say tried because unfortunately I was just a table away from a couple of gals blabbing loudly about their lives, and on the other side of me a gang of folks were trying to out-funny one another with their witty repartee. Maybe it’s just like that out here, everyone saying “look at me! listen to me!” which I can find exhausting. There was one point where they all had mometarily shut up, there was no traffic going by and even the background CD was between tracks and it was blissfully silent. It probably wasn’t even for 15-20 seconds but long enough for it to register and for me to say to myself, now THIS is what we need more of! As DM suggested, I did in fact enjoy the silence.
Since the cafe was right next to a vintage store I went in there and ended up buying a cute little sundress, and before you know it the time was up on my meter and I needed to get back into the hills and pick up Hillis. The traffic wasn’t nearly so bad this time, and Cliff came outside and met me as I was parking the car. The W’s were getting work done on their house, so we had to go up there via the neighbor’s side dog past their yappy dogs. I was introduced to W’s wife Kay(?) and their daugher Emma and we sat in the kitchen and chatted for a while. They are the nicest of folks and of course I told them they were more than welcome to visit us in Phoenixville if they ever happened to be in the Philly area. Then it was time for us to leave as Cliff’s gig was tonight.
We were a bit early for the gig but in the same neighborhood basically so it made no sense to try and head back across town. We drove around for a bit, saw folks in line to meet I think it was Limp Bizkit (funny I just had to ask Cliff how to spell that) and also folks were lined up to get into CBS for, we think, one of Bob Barker’s last days on The Price Is Right. All in a day’s work here in L/A.
We got a quick drink at the Snake Pit on Melrose to bide the time, and then soon enough it was time to head to Ghengis Cohen. I wrote some postcards in the car while Cliff checked out the scene inside, and then Anna, Mark and her friend Chairman showed up. I went inside where we ordered way too much tasty Chinese food (will have to ask Anna what that shrimp was that she said John Faye gets, it was delish) and a Mai Tai, that while not as colorful as the one from the Good Luck, totally kicked me in the butt. Cliff bowed out of dinner early and Chuck joined us, and then we all headed across the hall to see Cliff play.
The performance space at Ghengis is tiny, with pews on either side of the main aisle, so it was as if Cliff were to perform in a chapel rather than a restauarant in Hollywood. I was nervous that it would be empty, but friends and aquaitances began to trickle in and the place was decently full for a Monday night gig. I What can I say? He played a good set, I had to remind myself that a lot of these folks had not heard the new songs that I had been privy to, and the response was enthusiastic. Before you know it the gig we had been waiting so long for was over, and folks were chatting and leaving, as tomorrow was a work day for most.
It wasn’t a work day for us, so we headed out with Kevin to The Dime, right across from Canters and next to Largo, for one more drink. It was a small place and seemed like just a regular bar, until I noticed that all of the tiny tables had reserved signs on them. Can you imagine! L/A. I swear. Anyhow I did ask the bartender about it and he said that someone had just left the corner booth so we were able to sit there. I bet it was just a gimmic, I mean it would be like the Rat back in the day, having you make reservations. Actually the Rat was a lot cooler than this place, but whatever. A drink or two later it’s time to go. Kevin said he had ridden his bike so I expected a 10 speed not a motorcycle and that gave me a good chuckle. Then it was off to Los Feliz.
Tuesday can be summed up pretty easily. Chicken and Waffles at Roscoes with Anna and Mark (I am addicted). Driving out towards Danny’s we get the call that he has just gotten a last minute jingle request and feels bad for cancelling with Cliff. We take it in stride, as we’ve done plenty of stuff on this trip already, so the free time is a treat.
Since we’re on the Ventura Highway in the Sunshine (actually it was cool and grey out) we decided to go to Ventura- as that was my destination for the day anyways, and check out the thrift stores we had been told about. We drove through Pleasant Valley, and I said to Cliff, “Hey its another Pleasant Valley Tuesday” which amused me. Thrifting in Ventura was OK, a lot of folks and some overpriced stuff, but it was cool to poke around in the shops etc. We had In/Out Burgers for lunch, and Cliff was able to connect up with Robbie Rist, so we stopped by his studio to chat on our way to the airport. Cliff and Robbie worked on an impromptu song and I just hung out and took it all in as our moments out here were dwindling down to a precious few.
The rest is like the end of anyone else’s vacation- dropping off the rental car, spending too long in the airport, you know the deal. We had hoped to get a last drink in town at the place at the top of the cool mod building at LAX, but A&M informed us that it had been closed for renovations. So we got a McDonald’s cheeseburger in the airport and waited for our redeye flight that would drop us in Philly at 6:30 in the morning on Wednesday. Back to reality. But boy did we have fun while we were away!
L/A Sunday both sides now
At the request of some of my “fans” here is some more of the story about our wonderful trip to L/A….
Sunday was when our Chilis’ trip ended and our normal L/A type trip began. We got up early early to drop T&P off at LAX and also say goodbye to our Hertz rental. We were going to extend the rental on that car but when we saw how much we would have to pay, versus walking less than a block to Dollar, well let’s just say that the money saved would’ve bought all of us another breakfast at Chateau Marmont.
We drop T&P off, get the new car (Dodge Avenger? Plasticmobile, I would not want to buy one) and what do we pass on the way back from LAX but one of the famous Randy’s Donuts shops with the gargantuan Donut on the top. Not quite as fancy as my pain du chocolat of the day before, I order a chocolate glazed and it is quite tasty, almost as good as Suzy Jo’s near work. Snap a few photos, and then it’s back in the car, back to the Chateau, to soak up as much glamour as we can before we have to check out at noon.
Noon rolls around too soon- I gather up some commemorative matchbooks and Cliff is inspired to record some song ideas, so I also snap some photos of him playing his guitar in the room (I promise to get the flickr page done after the blogging, promise!). I am ready before Cliff and so I head down to the lobby to absorb it all, just in case we never get back here. I write down a few notes in my notebook (“Italian woman is giving the hostess a bad time. Agga & Jim would’ve liked this place. Out of my element, but what is my element? Mirrors everywhere, see and be seen, narcissism rules.” and surreptitiously snap some photos of chairs etc. Cliff checks us out, all has been taken care of by the Chili’s folks and we even had our bags brought down to the car- see, I could get used to this! The kind gentleman in the garage opens my door for me for the last time, and we head west on Sunset. One last glance up at the stately mansion on the hill, and we’re off to a new chapter of our trip.
We are to be staying in Los Feliz for the rest of our trip, in a cute little bungalow apartment where our friend Mark lives. I love this part of town, right near the Vista cinema. We won’t be heading over there just yet, as we’ve decided to head all the way down Sunset to the 405 and check out the Getty Museum.
The Getty is easy to get to, and free to get in once you pay for parking. Unfortunately Cliff and I forget that it is Mothers Day and the place is packed with Mothers and families and tons of kids. We have a tasty snack in the cafeteria, which is more like a giant cafe, with floor to ceiling windows, actually walls of glass, overlooking the beautiful view. The multiple buildings that house the collections are all made of while travertine and are just radiant in the sun. One detail I noticed and appreciated was that they had parasols at each exit so if you felt as if you were getting too much sun you could simply pick up one and save your skin.
My favorite exhibit was the John Humble photographs, and folks who know me and know my photos know that his stuff is right up my alley.
http://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/humble/
Our afternoon at the Getty was nice, and a break from our usual rock and roll city stuff, but soon enough we heard it calling and headed to Los Feliz. We get to Marks, and crack up at the fact that the key to the house is on the exact same Mr. T (don’t gimme no backtalk sucka!) keychain that Cliff has at home. I don’t think we were at the house but a few moments when Cliff calls Anna who says there’s an afternoon rockabilly show at the Echo, and our friend Gene might be playing. Never ones to say no to rock, we quickly change gears and clothes and Anna picks us up in her new to her Volvo. Hello, Sylvia!
Alas Gene was not at the gig, but I did see an older woman sporting the most glorious beehive this side of Bawlmer, hon, and was introduced to the delights of Wyders Pear Cider at the bar. It was still daylight out, and there were burgers and dogs grilling out back, but we weren’t sure that was how we wanted to roll. We did run into Anna’s boss and a pal of hers as well as Gene’s drummer. I should remember his name as they stayed with us when we lived in Wilmington, but that seems like another lifetime ago. It was nice to chat with the folks, but both Anna and I were racking our brains for something good to eat, which is something I think both she and I do on a regular basis anyways!
We decided to head to Bossa Nova, where I got my first cocktail to celebrate World Cocktail day- hello Queens of Prussia! I had to get a caipirinha of course, being in a Brazilian restaurant, and while I was told that it wasn’t 100% authentic (no cachaca) it was still tres tasty. We all had plenty of food and good conversation, and isn’t that the way it is supposed to be?!
Since it was still a rock night for us, we decided to go to one of my fave if not my fave bars in L/A, The Good Luck, which as I mentioned is just down the street from us. I love the black and red decor, the jukebox and the kickin’ maitai (just for you Queens of Prussia!)
Mark put on some Japanese Girl Group music from the ’60s’ and I was tickled to find the original version of the Valley of the Dolls theme on there too. No Vince Vaughn sightings like last time, which was a relief, and while Cliff and Mark ordered another round of whatever they were having, Anna was kind enough to drop me off at the pad on her way home. That way boys could be boys (and knowing them they were deconstructing pop music with unnatural vigor) while I got to get some sleep!
Speaking of sleep, it was funny to note that the beginning and end of today really marked the difference in this second leg of our trip out here. From croissants and ultraluxe accommodations at the Chateau to donuts from Randy’s and the aerobed in the back room of Mark’s place. I dig both and am just happy to be out here having such a great time!
L/A Saturday-I could get used to this!
So we’ve returned home from our great trip to Los Angeles, alas. I am realizing that we’re forgetting some of the details already, so I thought I’d finish off this L/A blog just so I have it down somewhere at least.
Saturday morning I woke up very early still being on East Coast time. The bathroom at the Chateau was old but cool, and the tub was extra deep. I decided to take the longest hottest bubble bath ever, and it really was a treat. As I saw my red painted toenails contrasting against the seafoam green tiles, I still could not believe that I was actually staying here, and wondered how many famous people had walked the very same halls that we had walked. I realized that we were in a place that so many folks would never ever be able to visit, and I felt very lucky to be where I was.
I joined Cliff and T and P down in the dining room where they had already ordered breakfast. It was there that Patti informed me that unfortunately the place has a “No Photographs, please” policy, so my hopes of getting some good shots of the lovely interior and terrace were thwarted. I got a wonderful pain du chocolat and pot of tea, and it was just delicious.
Patti had expressed interest in seeing the La Brea Tarrrrrrpits (I can’t think of that without hearing Bugs Bunny say it) and so off we went. I had been there on my first trip to L/A in 98, but since then a huge county art museum has been built up next to it. We were able to drive past the El Rey Theatre, where I first met Cliff, but the Marquee was not lit up so I did not take a photo. It was neat to see “where it all began” however.
After the Tarrrrpits we headed somewhat aimlessly to Melrose. It’s funny because when I first visited the city almost 10 years ago I thought Melrose was kinda cool and funky. Perhaps it is a combination of it changing and me changing, but now it just reminded me a lot of South Street in Philly. Not that that is bad, but it is more like a highschool version of cool. We happened upon a little place on the corner called The Village Idiot and since the windows were open and it looked inviting, we went in and had a bite and a drink. The food was fabulous (shrimp fritter and cider for me) the ambiance was very open and casual yet somewhat classic, done in black white and grey. We later found out from Anna that the place had just opened, and was supposed to evoke a New York vibe, so our east coast instincts must’ve picked up on that.
We headed back to the Chateau, and after having discovered the pool earlier in the day, we headed there to have a cocktail. It was a bit chilly in the shade, but it was still nice to be able to hang out there. The Chateau was small, but definitely on a human scale, and it was hard to believe when we were there surrounded by tropical foliage and bamboo that we were mere feet from Sunseet Blvd. It seemed like we were totally removed from the city.
Our plan for dinner that evening was again courtesy of the hostess WITH the mostess, Anna, who met us at En Sushi on Hillhurst, in Los Feliz, my favey part of town. It is a bit confusing at the intersection of Sunset, Hillhurst, Hollywood at the Vista, but we found our way finally and met up with Cliff’s pal Kevin there too. Tasty rolls, drinks all around and great company. Sigh, this is the good life.
From there we weren’t sure what our plan was, so we decided to head over somewhat early to the Dresden to get a good seat for Marty and Elayne. If you have never heard of Marty and Elayne they are featured prominently in a night out scene in the movie Swingers. Cliff and I had seen them before, and loved them, and Cliff had even gotten them to autograph a CD and programme for me for one of my very first birthday presents from him. Kitschy for sure, but fun too! The Dresden was an old time dinner club, and the booths where you dine are just a Hollywood destinations to die for. Giant white naugahyde things.
We all had a cocktail too many, snapped photos, and generally had a grand time. I got total bonus points from Elayne for requesting “Old Cape Cod” by Patti Page- Marty told us she had not sung it in over 8 years, and since it was her birthday it was extra special. My love of old standards pays off! We stayed there way too long and sang along, but isn’t that what you do on a Saturday night in Hollywood?
Actually what you do on Saturday night in Hollywood is to go from the Dresden to Bar Marmont, the bar associated with the Chateau. Folks who keep up on that type of thing tell me that “stars” hang out there, but I don’t think that anyone who I would consider a star these days (do I consider anyone a star?) would be there. It was cool to be seen at the scene, and fun to people watch. T’was a bit loud for me I have to admit, and I was just fine with the idea that we leave after just a couple of drinks. I remember sitting there looking at all of the bottles behind the bar and realizing that all bars are the same, really. I mean they pretty much all serve the same brands, it’s just the surroundings and the prices that vary.
Not to call it a night quite yet, we headed back to Le Chateau, where people were still meeting and drinking in the lobby. It was dimly lit for privacy I am sure, and there are all sorts of plush chairs and sofas arranged for conversation, so we got ourselves comfortable. We were immediately greeted by a server (who reminded me of Sancho Panza) even though it had to be past midnight or even one at this point. I got a club soda during this round, and we all soaked up the glamour, knowing our hours here were limited. It was not as hopping as the previous night, but still you knew that there were some deals being made and probably some “famous” people in our midst.
It was somewhat like Cinderella with the clock ticking towards midnight, since we knew that we all had to get up early in the morn- Tom and Patti to leave and Cliff and me to drive them to the airport, drop off the rental car, and check out of the Chateau. As Marshall Crenshaw says, “this moment won’t ever be here again” so we made the absolute most of it, savoring and appreciating every last bit. Then, when we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer, we headed up the stairs to the comfiest bed ever, for a night of satisfied slumber.
L/A Friday Night slideshow spectacular!
We’re just about to check out of the Chateau, and I think I will be forever spoiled from staying in a place as cool as this. It is a bit much, but what an experience!
Friday night we went to din at Minibar, where we had tapas and were surrounded by Margaret Keane paintings in a brown, white, orange and aqua color scheme. This is where we met up with Anna and it was great to see her after not being out here in forever. A couple of wacky turns later we found ourselves at the Charles Phoenix show. It has been unseasonably chilly here, which was a bit of a surprise to us east coasters, but the show was fun and seeing Cybil Shepard make a total ass of herself in the audience (she might as well have worn a sign saying “hey everyone look at me I am famous” it was so desparate) but the night was fun and the slides were a riot. I loved the roller rink organ player and kept trying to identify the tunes, the hula hooper was fab, but I wasn’t too sure about the pink poodle of the hotdog ambrosia. We got back to the hotel and I am sorry I let you all down but I was too cold and tired to go out for another drink, so I headed up to the most comfortable bed in the world and was asleep before Cliff even closed the door. He and Tom and Patti had a few outside under the heat lamps and said it was nice but I didn’t miss anything.
I will fill in about yesterday at some other time, we’re headed to get fried chicken and waffles and then going to the Getty Art Museum.
Having an incredible time!!
L/A Friday- having a blast!
OK so the flight from PA was delayed about an hour and a half, so we didn’t get into town until 11pm. BUT we were staying at the Marriot right near LAX and not only was it a cool midmod place on the outside, it was tres comfy and we had a great view of the pool.
Today was just loverly- Anna suggested Pann’s googie coffee shop for breakfast and I took a bunch of photos. We then headed up La Cienaga to the New West Records office in Beverly Hills and got to see so many cool little haciendas (haciendae?) – there was no way I could take pictures of them all. We saw some of those crazy cottages made by the Disney set design guys, will have to learn more about them.
Cliff’s meeting with NW went well, and we had just enough time after that to head to…the Hustler Magazine offices? Yes folks, Mod Betty and co hung at Larry’s place for a while with old pal Keith V. Not really something I expected to do, but hey, when in Rome! Patti got some back issues and KV was happy to give out free tees. I am so glad to see he and M and A are doing well out here, it was great to hang even for that bit.
Now we’re here at Chateau Marmont, and I hate to disappoint all of you, but it seriously is the coolest place ever. Ever! Our room was not quite ready when we got here, so the desk comped us a round of drinks outside (Grey Goose and Cran thank you) and our room is just so full of vintage coolness that I almost had a heart attack. I have taken too many photos of things like tea kettles and Frigidare logos, but somehow I don’t think they can quite capture the ambiance here. It really is old school glamour, I really feel like we’ve stepped back in time 50-60 years and I love it. The vibe and atmosphere here is probably not appreciated by a lot of folks but I am so digging it that I almost want to cry, it’s so cool. They had old timey jazz on when we came into the room, and that just set the tone.
We’re heading out in a few moments to Minibar to meet Anna then off to Charles Phoenix. Our adventures have just begun but already it has been so great and I am so happy that I am literally jumping up and down.
Connie Peet, you would love this place. They’ve got Campari and everything.
This truly is La Dolce Vita, and I feel so lucky to be a part of it.
